January 17, Chris and I headed to Costa Rica for an Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) small group trip to Costa Rica
Day 1, January 17 was a travel day, from Raleigh through Miami, to San Jose. To the hotel, lunch at a local spot around the corner, and soup for dinner at the hotel.
Day 2, January 18. We started the day with a welcome lecture by our trip experience leader Juan Diego Montero, introductions, and plans for the trip.
Around 9:45 we headed out in the coach for the suburb of Escazu, which is a very traditional area with small shops and businesses and a large residential area, with many ex-pats. We started at the central square with the San Antonio de Escazú church. All towns are laid out the same, with a Church facing West, so the altar faces East for sunrise. Across the street is a soccer field, on the other side are schools. Around the square are municipal buildings. Bars must be located at a minimum of 100 meters from the schools. We also saw a statue of workers, a man and a woman, leading Oxen pulling an ox-cart. Each town has a town emblem and special artwork markings for their oxcarts, including the wheels, which are made of wood and rimmed with metal. The town has rural roots and holds an annual festival in March – The Day of the Oxcart Driver. A funeral procession had just left the church and we could still smell the lingering fragrance of the sweet/herbal incense. Interestingly some of the stain glass windows include the Star of David, reflecting a multicultural history of the church.
Note: lots of women were declared witches, based on the fact that people overheard jewish women secretly performing Shabbat services and thought they were witches.
We then went to the workshop of a mask-maker. He learned the craft from his grandfather, who also had helped design the church. He had another paying job, but maintains the role of making traditional masks which represent various figures from history and fables, and are used during festivals. His goal is to make a museum to preserve these traditional masks. The mask maker’s grandson and our local guide donned masks and danced to a traditional tune.
We then had lunch in a small restaurant. The cook was the wife of the mask maker. We had sangria, a salad, and a traditional meal with chicken, potatoes, tortilla and cheese-filled fried yucca croquettes. You can see the traditional decorations on the beam, inspired by the yolk of the oxcart.
After lunch, we drove back into the heart of San Jose, saw more of the city and stopped to tour the National Theatre. The theater guides, some wearing garb from the founding of the theater, showed us around, explained the history (it opened in 1897 with a performance of Faust), described the artwork and marble, mostly imported because at the time there was little art skill in the country.
The theater floor was made to be raised by about 10 feet, so it could be used for parties and celebrations. It is currently only raised when there is a new president, and the president goes into the lower level with his aides to assist in raising the floor. A mural, Allegory of Coffee and Bananas by Milanese artist Aleardo Villa, is on the ceiling above the grand staircase, and is featured on the five colón bill. It contains numerous inaccuracies, since the artist was clueless about the coffee and banana business!
We closed the tour with a visit to the national park and discussion about the political origins of the country, freedom from Spain, independence from the Federal Republic of Central America in 1821, and historic new constitution in 1948 guaranteeing equal voting rights for all and abolishing the military.
Back to the hotel for dinner and rest.
Day 3 January 19
Before leaving San Jose, we stopped at the local farmer’s market, where all the local folks and restaurant owners purchase fresh food. Juan Diego introduced us to many new fruits, roots and other vegetables. The item that looks like ginger is curcumen root.
Some street scenes from our drive out of the city.
Then we drove into higher elevation, where coffee can be produced. We had a tour of a carbon-neutral, family-run, coffee plantation (finca) in the town of Poas in the Alajuela province. The coffee finca is run by Don Miguel or “Pancho,” who is 68, and well know in the field, also an expert coffee taster, and representative on the board that oversees coffee standards in Costa Rica. He showed us their process of starting plants from seed, and the hand collection of beans over 4 passes over time. After collecting, they remove the outer two coats of the bean in a shaking machine, let the remaining bean dry, sort them by size, shake them through another machine to get the last coats off the bean, then roast them to the desired color. He demonstrated two methods of brewing the coffee: one using a sock-shaped cotton filter after mixing the grounds with hot water, and using a French press with a specific set of timed steps.
We had a traditional lunch at the finca, consisting of broth, into which we added an assortment of vegetables and meat, called olla de carne.
We then drove to Sarapiqui, stopping along the way to see a magnificent waterfall, and another scenic spot with great birds and vegetation. We tasted tortillas made with corn and cheese with sour cream on top. We also stopped to observe a large group of White-nosed Coatimundis who were being fed by some tourists (or locals who should know better, according to our guide). They are omnivorous and very accustomed to people!
We arrived at our lodge in the town of Virgin in the Sarapiqui area, locally-owned La Quinta Sarapiqui. We socialized with fellow travellers while watching birds on a porch, and enjoyed a buffet dinner and early bedtime. Birds below are Emerald Toucanet, Blue-gray Tanager, Clay-colored Thrush (national bird of Costa Rica), Silver-throated Tanager, Green-crowned Brilliant Hummingbird, Cherrie’s Tanagers, and Grey-headed Chachalaca.
Day 4, January 20 (Friday)
This morning’s adventure was a rafting trip on the Sarapiqui river, down Class I,II, and III rapids. It was fun to paddle on white water again! Chris opted for the nature walk instead, along the park area and swinging bridge.
We enjoyed lunch and a chill afternoon at the lodge. The blue birds below are a Red-legged Honeycreeper, and a Golden-hooded Tanager. With them is a female Baltimore Oriole. The silhouetted bird is a Black Guan. More Cherrie’s Tanagers, and the small yellow bird might be a Palm Tanager. Hummingbird is probably a Violet Sabrewing.
Before dinner we were joined by a local entrepreneur who described the harms to the environment of monoculture. The large corporate farms, particularly pineapple farms, are harmful due to their overuse of chemicals and water, soil degradation and erosion, and deforestation. We had a great dinner at the lodge. Unfortunately, a lovely member of the group was experiencing abdominal pain. A physician was called and determined she should be taken to a private hospital in San Jose. (She had surgery the following day, and following some complications, was able to fly home with a healthcare attendant, to enter a Boston hospital, some days after the rest of us had flown home. According to her friend, the hospital was a step above most US hospitals, and the trip insurance company was great).
Day 5, January 21 (Saturday)
We took 2-hour hike in the Tirimbina Biological Reserve, which is dedicated to preserving the endangered tropical forest ecosystem. We saw a Blue and Black Poison Dart Frog. We crossed the 860-foot suspension bridge and several others along the way. One small bridge was washed out, resulting in a very slippery and muddy creek crossing.
We then headed out to Chachagua. We stopped twice. One stop was in a village with a great supermarket for loading up on supplies, and spotting a female sloth (see last photo above) that hangs out in the forest beside the parking lot. The second, unplanned stop, was at a restaurant/bar with an amazing overlook with hummingbirds and other brightly colored birds and plants. We arrived at our new lodge, Bosques de Chachagua, an amazing spot!! The lodge had a hot spring pool as well as a traditional swimming pool. The rainforest landscaping was lovely and the tropical birds were abundant. As with the previous lodge, our porch included a comfortable hammock. Before dinner, Juan Diego gave us a talk about the country’s educational system, in preparation for our visits the next day. Food was great. I had terrific talapia ceviche two nights in a row.
Day 6, January 22 (Sunday) A Day in the Life
On our way to the “Day in the Life” at San Juan de Penas Blancas village, we stopped at a local grocery store to pick up items we would need to help prepare our home-hosted lunch. We stopped to pick up the community leader, Rocio Trejos (I wish I had a picture of her — she was quite lovely in sleek black dress and heels), who moved to the village many years prior and helped organize the community, sought and received grants to build infrastructure. There are now a few paved roads, electricity, clean water, and public school for this rural community and surrounding areas. We the visited San Juan de Penas Blancas school and learned how this local school had been set up. Because school was not in session (it was a seasonal break, plus it was Sunday), only the Principal and 2 students, one of whom was the daughter of the community leader, met us at the school. We learned even more about the educational system (everything including transportation from remote areas is supported by the government). All the children from this high school have graduated, with most going on to college and some to trade school, also supported by the government. The two girls entertained us with beautiful dancing, and had some of us participate in a dance as well. We also visited the school’s butterfly house.
Following the school visit, we visited a local farm family. The family raises cows, and is the sole source of milk and cheese in the community. We had a tasty lunch, a casado, typical meal with chayote ( a summer squash), double-fried plantains, rice and beans, and fruit juices. It was followed by a beverage much like Bailey’s, made with cocoa and milk.
We enjoyed free time back at the lodge, followed by dinner. For breakfast the next day, I opted for the traditional fare, which included rice and beans, egg, ham, fried plantain and tortilla. Yellow bird by the pool is a Great Kiskadee, which we saw very frequently. Fruit is star fruit.
Day 7, January 23 (Monday)
After a leisurely breakfast at the lodge, we drove to the town of Fortuna, near the Arenal Volcano. We stopped at the city square while Juan Diego made an urgent visit to his bank, and explored the lovely vegetation and surrounding shops. We then took a hike along the Peninsula Trail at the Arenal Volcano National Park. The end of the trail provided a nice view of the volcano. The crested birds below are male and female Great Curassows. Male has the yellow knob on his bill. We returned to the town square and were on our own for lunch. Chris and I had fabulous Pizza overlooking the square. Light poles had the colors of the CR flag. Sign says something like – demonstrate your level of education by picking up after your dog.
We then drove toward our lodge, Hotel Ecoarenal, after dropping off those of us who were going on a forest canopy tour, ziplining across twelve stations, spotting monkeys in trees, and being greeted by Black-manible Toucans at the last stop. The rain poured on our walk back to the registration hut!
Dinner was at the lodge.
Day 8, January 24 (Tuesday)
We awoke to a family of howler monkeys cavorting in the woods behind the building our room was in. They were great fun to watch. Mid-morning we drove to the Rio Frio for a 2-hour cruise on the river. Along the way, we saw Anhingas, Aracari, Amazon Kingfishers, Neotropical Cormorants, Snowy Egrets, Pygmy Kingfishers, Mangrove Swallows, Northern Jacana, Vine Snakes, sleeping bats, Green Iguanas, Boat-billed Night Herons, Green Herons, Howler Monkeys, Roseate Spoonbills flying overhead, and Little Blue Herons. And small crocodiles. We ate lunch at a rustic local spot and then headed back to the lodge. Dinner was on our own, but we all went with Juan Diego to a local restaurant that specialized in seafood. The food was generally excellent. I had yellowfin tuna with two large shrimp on top.
Day 9, January 25 (Wednesday)
In the morning we stopped at a center where we met a member of an indigenous tribe that still maintains a traditional village, preserving traditions and language. We then visited a cacao farm to learn about all the steps in making chocolate. Chris really enjoyed the tour while I hung out at the main center of the farm, not feeling so great. Lunch was at the farm, and then we drove to the Alajuela District, to Rinco de la Vieja, in the foothills of the Rincon de la Vieja volcano. The lodge, the Blue River Resort and Hotel was great!!!
Day 10, January 26 (Thursday)
Instead of participating in the next activity on horseback, like the others in the group, Chris and I followed the group in the bus to the waterfall, about 3 miles from the lodge, passing local families and homes. Many of us swam in the pool below the waterfall, which was refreshing. What a gorgeous setting!
Chris and I walked around the lodge trails, looking at the vegetation, the butterflies at a butterfly house, and hummingbirds at a gazebo with feeders in each corner. ‘Back to the lodge for lunch and a swim in one of the naturally heated mineral pools. Then I had a massage and facial at the spa. After the spa, I explored the trails to the natural sauna and also tried out the mudbath.
Before dinner at the lodge, we went to a local cantina for drinks and group karaoke! It was a blast!
Day 11, January 27 (Friday)
This was mainly a travel day, heading to our next lodge near Puntarenas on the Central Pacific coast. We stopped for lunch along the way, and then made our way to the Hotel Punta Leona.
After we arrived, we took bus ride to the lodge’s beach club (really a short walk from our rooms) to see the amenities and beach. There was a sloth in one of the trees — with the closest views yet. Then we drove to another, less crowded, beach to watch an amazing sunset!
Day 12, January 28 (Saturday)
Some of us met Juan Diego at 7:00 am for a 1.5 hour walk above the lodge, seeing a variety of interesting trees, a plant that plays dead when touched, and great scenery, including views of the pacific. After breakfast, Chris and I walked to the local butterfly house and garden. Outside the garden were several orapendula (my favorite birds in Peru) nests with the birds flying in and out. It was a highlight to hear their calls while we observed the butterflies.
We had some time to read and relax at the pool and watch the iguanas eating plants and monkeys scampering over the roof of the restaurant, which had netting above it to keep the monkeys out. But it didn’t stop them from hanging around!
In the afternoon, we took a cruise of the Tarcoles River, through Mangrove forests, with lots of water birds and crocodiles. We stopped to watch the sunset from a beach island in the river delta. The large bird is a Slaty-tailed Trogon. Great black Hawk, Snowy Egret, Scarlet Macaws, Osprey. Yellow-crowned Night Herons, Other Herons, Egrets and White Ibis. In addition, we saw Amazon Kingfishers, Magnificent Frigatebirds, Mangrove Swallows, Brown Pelicans, Neotropical Cormorants, Anhingas, Black-necked Stilts, Black-tailed Whistling Ducks, Spotted Sandpipers, Yellow-hooded Caracara, Crested Caracara, Yellow-naped Parrot, Black Vultures, more Great Kiskedees, Green Iguanas, and American Crocodiles
Dinner was on our own, but we all went with Juan Diego to a spot he recommended.
Day 13, January 29 (Sunday) — our last day!
In the morning we paddled by 2 outrigger canoes, with an extra guide and his dog in a kayak, along the cliffs and sandy beaches. The sky was full of Magnificent Frigatebirds and Brown Pelicans. We stopped at a beach, where the guides set up chairs and a lunch with fresh pineapple and watermelon, and make-your-own sandwiches. We had the chance to swim in the ocean; the water was perfect, although getting out from a rocky bottom was f. After changing into dry clothes at the outrigger station, where scarlet mackaws joined us in the neighboring trees, we drove to San Jose, checked into the same hotel we started from, Hotel Parque del Lago, and headed to our farewell dinner at a local, wonderful, French restaurant.
A few watercolor sketches based on the trip.
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